Amadablam (6,814m) situated at the top above the Imja Khola valley in the Khumbu, just above the summer settlement of Dingboche and on the southeastern area from the village of Pangboche, it is regarded as one of the most beautiful mountains in the whole of Himalaya and probably in the world. The name Ama Dablam is derived from the Tibetan language meaning Mother with a Jewel Box, one can make it out if carefully observed from its southwestern face just near the neck of the peak a large chunk of ice lies dangling like a small jewel box. It is becoming popular among the hardy mountaineers to summit this beautiful peak, which is much technical from either side of this mountain, perched near the Imjatse Valley and Panch Pokhari region.
Ama Dablam is one of the most stunning peaks in the Himalaya. Situated in the heart of Everest’s Kumbu region, it lies next to the well-worn path to Everest Base Camp and is admired by thousands of trekkers and climbers every year. This expedition offers a superb climbing experience in a magnificent setting, with numerous cultural and scenic diversions. The mountain’s impressive beauty has made it a highly coveted prize for climbers. Since its first ascent 1961 by and Anglo-American New Zealand team, it has been climbed frequently and by many different routes.
Our route will be by the original southwest Ridge. This gives a superb climb, sustained at a reasonable level of difficulty and with good camp platforms at strategic points along the route. Apart from one short section, it is objectively very safe. A route description is included in the detail.
The adventure starts from Lukla after a spectacular mountain flight from Kathmandu.
Making way first to Namche Bazaar and after two nights here, and then heading towards the off beaten trail to Ama Dablam area.
From Ama Dablam base camp descend along the Imja Khola to Pangboche and make way to Namche Bazaar, passing through Thyangboche. After descending the hill from Namche, follow the Dudh Kosi valley to Lukla where a spectacular mountain flight takes back to Kathmandu after an exciting memorable adventure with Sherpa Mountaineering Expeditions.
Itinerary
Day 01: Arrival Kathmandu
Day 02: Kathmandu
Day 03: Prepared Expedition & Briefing in Ministry of Tourism
Day 04: Lukla and trek to Phakding – Lodge
Day 05: Namche Bazaar – Lodge
Day 06: Namche -Acclimatization – Lodge
Day 07: Namche -Thyanboche Monastery Lodge
Day 08- Pangboche Lodge
Day 09: Ama Dablam Base camp (tent)
Day 10-25: Climbing period for Ama Dablam
Day 26: Base camp – Namche – Lodge
Day 27: Namche – Phakding -Lodge
Day 28: Phakding – Lukla -Lodge
Day 29: Fly Lukla – Kathmandu & transfer to hotel
Day 30: Kathmandu
Day 31: Kathmandu
NOTE ON ITINERARY: this itinerary will change during the climbing period The climbing guide will be decide
Day 01: Arrival at Kathmandu and transfer to hotel.
On arrival in Kathmandu, you are warmly greeted by our Sherpa Mountaineering Expeditions staff at Tribhuvan International Airport (TIA). SME representatives will assist then transfer to respective hotels.
Day 02-03: In Kathmandu sightseeing tour & preparation for trek/climb.
In Kathmandu sightseeing program includes visit of world heritage sites the sacred Hindu temple of Pashupati Nath, the world biggest Stupa; Boudhhanath, known as little Tibet, Swoyambhunath Stupa (monkey temple) located on a hillside one of the oldest religious spot of more than 2,500 years old and historical Kathmandu Durbar Square with unique architectural temple, and the virgin Kumari known as Living Goddess in Basantapur at central Kathmandu. Kathmandu is not only naturally beautiful but it also holds the beauty of incredible Newar people culture with ancient architecture.
Day 04: Fly to Lukla (2,886m), & trek to Phakding (2640m) – 3 hrs.
Moring a super scenic flight of near 35 minutes brings you at Lukla. Lukla airport is also known as Tenzing–Hillary Airport and Luka are assessable either by air or by trek from the old classic route by Jiri or from Arun Valley, from Lukla start our trek to Phakding for an overnight stop.
Day 05: Trek to Namche Bazaar 3,440m – 06 hrs.
On this day we walk up to the bank of the Dudh Koshi River and cross the suspension bridge. A few hours of trek will take us to the entrance gate to visit National Park, Monjo. We further walk for a few hours to reach Namche. Namche is a prosperous trading town and the capital of the Khumbu Region with many Nepalese officials, ATMs, Internet cafes, shops, restaurants, a police check, post, and a bank, a bakery and a colorful market each Friday evening and Saturday. You can buy your essential climbing equipment and other stuff here in Namche if needed, overnight at Namche Bazaar.
Day 06: Rest at Namche Bazaar for acclimatization and excursion.
Namche is the perfect place for acclimatization. Spending an extra day in Namche helps to acclimatize our body at higher altitudes and avoid the risk of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). Namche is also a mesmerizing market hub where one can explore its vicinity and make further plans for the trip.
Day 07: Trek to Tyangboche 3,867m – 5hrs.
Trek along a gradual trail through conifer and rhododendron forests, somewhat exposed trail with the best views of Ama Dablam. The walk further offers striking views of Mt.Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Thamserku and Kwangde peak. The trail climbs uphill passing through the forests to reach Tyangboche. This area is known as the holy land as the head lama (Rinpoche) of the monastery resides here. This is the place, where climbers take blessing from the high lama in order to have the best and safe expedition.
Day 08: Trek to Pangboche 3,900m – 03hrs.
Descending gradually through woods, cross the Imja Tse Khola and climb steadily to the village of Pangboche. This is directly opposite of Ama Dablam (6,856 m.), and is a good place to stop by for the lunch and overnight camp overlooking the excellent view of Ama Dablam, Kangtenga and Thermasarkhu, afternoon free for a local hike to the upper village and visit the local old monastery.
Day 09: Trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp 4,580m – 04hrs.
From the camp descend towards the Imjatse River and cross the small wooden bridge, after the river a steep climb of 40 minutes leads to a large meadow with a couple of Shepard huts. From here the walk is on the gradual uphill path till the base of Ama Dablam is reached. The camp is on the large field beneath the towering majestic peak of Ama Dablam.
Day 10: Rest Day at Base Camp.
A good rest day, with an optional hike towards the advance camp with the wonderful views of the surrounding beautiful landscapes
Day 11-22: Ascent of Ama Dablam.
During these 12-13 days, you will be engrossed dividing the loads and checking your equipment for the final assault.
It is impossible to predict the exact day by day itinerary for this period. The team will be broken down into climbing groups who will work on the mountain for several days before returning for a rest at Base Camp. While one group is pushing out the route and fixing ropes another maybe carrying loads up to higher camps. Ray Delaney climbed the southwest ridge of Ama Dablam with Joe Simpson in April 1990.
His route description is as follows. From Base Camp follow old grassy moraine ridges roughly eastwards to a broad saddle from one can see a Mingbo-La. From the saddle turn north and climb up rocky ground and finally through boulders to the ridge below Pt.5, 705 which is the site of Camp I. There are four or five tent platforms.
From Camp I:
Cross a rocky bowl (tricky if snow-covered) until below two rock fingers, then move on to a ridge proper. Climbing the ridge involves rock climbing of severe standard with steps of VS (USA 5.6) Camp II is at the top yellow tower, which gives one of the hardest pitches on the climb at VS/Hard VS (5.8).
From Camp II:
Skirt a red rock bluff on the east and follow a ramp line to a gray tower. Move into the ramp (some stone fall danger) and climb to an amphitheater. Continue up a broad gully on between the gray tower and the lower rock buttress and climb a snow slope to ‘ Santa’s Grotto’ at the start of the Mushroom Ridge. Possible bivvy site Follow the mushroom ridge to a crevasse in the upper face, which offers another good bivvy site. Climb the snow/ Ice slope to the right of the face, and then follow mixed ground to the top of the highest hanging glacier. An ice crest now leads in a magnificent position to the summit.
Grand Views! We all need to be back at the base camp by Day 21-22. At this point, the porters will arrive for our walkout to Lukla.
Day 23: Cleaning up at Base Camp.
Today after regaining the energy back after the hard climb, everyone will be engaged cleaning up the base camp and packing. Please take all the dead used or
unused batteries back home.
Day 24: Trek to Pangboche.
An easy downhill of few hours brings you back to the Imjatse River after the river a short climb towards Pangboche.
Day 25: Trek to Namche Bazaar 07hrs.
Leaving Pheriche with grand views of Ama Dablam, Nuptse wall, Lhotse, Makalu and Island peak then head towards the famed Tyangboche with its beautiful monastery and striking scenery views, reaching back at lush vegetation and tree lines after being in arid terrain for a week or more, the final leg of this walk leads to a climb for an hour to Thyangboche offering grand views of peaks that surround this lovely spot with its monastery, a short downhill to Imjatse River after the bridge a steep climb for an hour with gradual winding trail all the way to Namche Bazaar for overnight stop.
Day 26: Trek to Lukla 06hrs.
After Name it’s all downhill to Dudh Kosi River bed and with few short ups to enter the Sagarmatha National park to exit towards Monjo, the last day walk of this great adventure with easy gradual trail through the village of Phakding following the Dudh Kosi, after crossing the bridge at Phakding a nice pleasant trek with few short up and downs to Lukla, on reaching Lukla the last dinner with the trekking staffs and porters.
Day 27: Fly to Kathmandu and transfer to the hotel.
The flight time to Kathmandu, are schedule for morning normally, because of the wind in the afternoon, sometime the flight time can be delayed due to bad weather and other reason, depending upon the flight time make way to the terminal for security check, this scenic flight from Lukla takes about 30 minutes to Kathmandu, a panoramic view of the snow-capped peaks can be seen during the flight. Arriving at Kathmandu domestic terminal, our staff will receive and transfer you back to the Hotel.
Day 28 -29: Free day at leisure.
A free day in Kathmandu, please inform our staff if you would like to go on another short tour in and around Kathmandu Valley.
Day 30: Transfer to the airport for international departure.
Today as per your international flight time, Sherpa Mountaineering Expeditions staff will take you to the airport for your final departure from this amazing country, Nepal.
Cost includes:
5 nights hotels in Kathmandu with bed & breakfast.
Ama Dablam expedition permit fee.
Government Liaison officer.
Complete camping equipment for trekking & base camp, and above.
Satellite phone in payable basis (per minute $5).
Food during trekking and Base Camp and above Base camp high altitude food for Member & Staff, different verity nutrition and hygienic.
High altitude cooking stove and gas.
Sagarmatha Conservation fee.
High Altitude Sherpa every 2 members 1 IFMGA certified mountain guide as a group leader.
Base Camp each member 1 tent, above camp 2 member 1 tent Sherpa mountaineering provide North Face or same qualities tent.
Dining tent, Table, Chairs, Toilet tent, Mess tent, and Kitchen tent.
Above mention staffs daily wages, equipment allowance climbing bonus & Insurance
Porters/Yak to/from the Base camp to carry food and fuel, members climbing gears, and all Base camp equipment.
Porters return from Base Camp carry per member including food & equipment.
All ground transportation as per itinerary.
Domestic flight from Kathmandu to Lukla and back.
Cargo Kathmandu to Lukla and vice-versa.
Radio each climbing member has 1 radio set guide and Sherpa as well.
Garbage deposit.
Cost excludes:
International Air travel to and from Kathmandu.
Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu.
Laundry, postage, telephone calls, and all other items of personal nature.
Entry visa and Re-entry visa for Nepal.
International departure tax.
Personal Expenses.
Medical and rescue insurance.
Personal Climbing equipment.
Bar bills & beverages.
Helicopter Rescue Charge.
Medicine and first aid expenses
